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Did You Know?

A lot of lawns have weathered blistering heat and devastating drought this past summer and look worse for the wear. September and October are the key times to sow new grass seed to make repairs.

What’s New?

  • Lime and Gypsum…wait a minute!
  • Rust on Ash Trees
  • Thatch Control in Warm-Season Lawns
  • Reducing Fruit Numbers on Apple Trees

Archives

  • February 2012
  • June 2011
  • May 2011
  • April 2011
  • March 2011
  • January 2011

Rust on Ash Trees

We are starting to receive calls on ash leaves developing swollen, bright orange spots. If these spots happen to occur on the petiole (leaf stem) or midvein, distortion and twisting of the leaf can result. Severe infections can result in significant leaf drop. This is a disease known as rust. You may be familiar with cedar-apple rust and this works in much the same way except the alternate host is cordgrass (Spartina). In other words, the disease must go back and forth between ash and cordgrass to survive. Infection of our ash tree actually took place this spring. Spraying now will be ineffective because the spores produced by the ash can only infect cordgrass. Fungicide applications in the spring as new leaves are emerging is effective but is usually not recommended for homeowners because established, healthy trees are rarely harmed. On the other hand, nursery managers may want to protect young, more vulnerable trees each year.  Effective products include propiconazole, triadimefon or myclobutanil beginning at leaf emergence. Make a second application after two weeks.

Taken from Kansas State University Research & Extension Horticulture Newsletter No. 22 May 31, 2011

└ Tags: Ash Trees, Disease, Tree Disease, Trees

Thatch Control in Warm-Season Lawns

Thatch control for cool-season lawn grasses such as bluegrass and tall fescue is usually done in the fall but now is the time we should perform this operation for warm-season turfgrasses such as bermudagrass and zoysiagrass. Because these operations thin the lawn, they should be performed when the lawn is in the best position to recover. For warm-season grasses that time is June through July. Buffalograss, our other common warm-season grass, normally does not need to be dethatched.

When thatch is less than one-half inch thick, there is little cause for concern; on the contrary, it may provide some protection to the crown (growing point) of the turfgrass. However, when thatch exceeds one-half inch in thickness, the lawn may start to deteriorate. Thatch is best kept in check by power-raking and/or core-aerating. If thatch is more than 3/4 inch thick, the lawn should be power-raked. Set the blades just deep enough to pull out the thatch. The lawn can be severely damaged by power-raking too deeply.  In some cases, it may be easier to use a sod cutter to remove the existing sod and start over with seed, sprigs or plugs.

If thatch is between one-half and a 3/4- inch, thick, core-aeration is a better choice. The soil-moisture level is important to do a good job of core-aerating. It should be neither too wet nor too dry, and the soil should crumble fairly easily when worked between your fingers. Go over the lawn enough times so that the aeration holes are about 2 inches apart.

Excessive thatch accumulation can be prevented by not over-fertilizing with nitrogen. Frequent, light watering also encourages thatch. Water only when needed, and attempt to wet the entire root zone of the turf with each irrigation.

Finally, where thatch is excessive, control should be viewed as a long-term, integrated process (i.e., to include proper mowing, watering, and fertilizing) rather than a one-shot cure. One power-raking or core-aeration will seldom solve the problem.

Taken from Kansas State University Research & Extension Horticulture Newsletter No. 22 May 31, 2011

└ Tags: Grass, Lawn Care, Thatch Control, Turf, Turf Management, Warm Season Lawns

Reducing Fruit Numbers on Apple Trees

Apple trees often produce excess fruit. Removing some of these extra fruits during the next three weeks is important. There can be two major benefits from fruit thinning. The first is to help ensure a return bloom for a good fruit crop next year. Apples produce fruit buds for next year’s crop during June; the same time this year’s fruit is maturing. Too many fruit this year leads to a lack of fruit bud development and a small crop next year. This leads to biennial bearing in which an apple tree produces a large crop one year and very few fruit the next. Thinning helps ensure that apples are produced each year.

The second benefit of thinning is to promote larger fruit on this year’s crop. Generally, an average spacing throughout a tree of about 4 inches per fruit is sufficient for a good return crop next year, as well as a desirable size on the fruits to be harvested this fall. Not all trees need thinning each year. Freezes during the bloom period may damage the fruit flowers and buds, resulting in naturally thinned trees.

Taken from Kansas State University Research & Extension Horticulture Newsletter No. 22 May 31, 2011

└ Tags: Apple Trees, Fruit Trees

Fireblight

Fireblight is most common on ornamental pears, fruiting pears and apples. Symptoms of fireblight include blackened, blighted shoots scattered throughout the tree crown. The shoots may have the classic Shepherd’s crook where the blighted tips bend downward. There may be small amber droplets of bacteria on the stem. This late in the season, antibiotic applications are not effective in controlling the disease. It is important, however, to control insects that may become contaminated with the bacterium and/or create wounds for infection. During the summer, prune out the blighted tips during dry weather. Make your pruning cut 10 to 12 inches below the discolored area of the branch. Disinfect pruning equipment between cuts with a 10 percent bleach solution, rubbing alcohol or some other disinfecting agent. If using bleach, be sure to clean and oil equipment after use because bleach is corrosive. Some people prefer the ugly stub method and snap the branch off below the blighted area. This helps you see at a glance where fireblight occurred in the tree. This may help with follow-up pruning during the winter.

Taken from Kansas State University Research & Extension Horticulture Newsletter No. 22 May 31, 2011

└ Tags: Apple Trees, Fruit Trees, Ornamental Pear Trees, Pear Trees, Tree Disease, Trees

Moon Gardening Basics

Plant above-ground plants and annuals in a favorable sign during the waxing moon when the moon is increasing, known as the light of the moon.

Plant below-ground plants and perennials in a favorable sign during the waning moon when the moon is decreasing, known as the dark of the moon.

Cancer, Scorpio and Pisces are considered fruitful signs.  Taurus, Capricorn and Libra are considered semi-fruitful.  Leo, Gemini and Virgo are the “most barren” signs.  Aquarius, Sagittarius and Aries are “less barren.”  Therefore, when the moon is in the barren signs, weeding and cultivating should be done.  When the moon is in a fruitful sign, planting crops according to whatever moon phase is best suited for them should be accomplished.

└ Tags: Gardening, Gardens, Moon Signs, Planting

Top 5 Reasons to Plant a Vegtable Garden

5.  Healthy food for you & your family.

4.  Save money.

3.  Share harvest with friends & neighbors.

2.  Home-grown produce tastes better!

1.  Fun projects for kids all ages.

Taken from Burpee Home Gardens Garden Fresh guide

The Rising Cost of Food

Interesting figures on the rising cost of food.  More reason to start a garden in your own back yard…

United Nations Food & Agriculture Organization, Food Price Index – Measures prices for a basket of food commodities, rose 2.2% in February.  The index has rose increased eight months in a row, putting it at the highest level since it was created in 1990.

United Nations figures show global food prices have risen 41% between June 2010 & February 2011, primarily due to a combination of bad weather & an increase in global demand.

Taken from the St. Joseph News-Press.  You can read the entire article here.

More fun facts about veggies:

$2,500
According to a survey by Burpee, you can expect about a 1-to-25 ratio of costs to benefits in a veggie garden started from seed.  So if you spend $100 on seeds and fertilizer, you can grow $2,500 worth of herbs and vegetables.

45
Some gardeners in Florida will likely plant their veggie gardens 45 to 60 days sooner than those in Montana.

10
The National Gardening Association 2009 survey named these as the 10 most popular homegrown vegetables:

  • Tomatoes
  • Cucumbers
  • Sweet Peppers
  • Beans
  • Carrots
  • Summer Squash
  • Onions
  • Hot Peppers
  • Lettuce
  • Peas
  • └ Tags: Gardening, Gardens

    How to Plant Onion Sets

    Onion Sets are usually used to grow green onions.  They grow rapidly during early Spring, cool conditions.  Place sets 1 to 1.5 inches deep, close enough to touch each other in a single row or a wide bed.

    Onion Sets have a shallow, poorly developed root system, so regular fertilization and water are essential.

    Supply at least 1 inch of water weekly and keep your onions weed free.

    When plants are 6 inches or taller, they can be pulled for green onions.

    └ Tags: Gardening, Gardens, Onion Sets, Onions, Planting

    Seeding, Part 2

    There is a pretty well established truth (among the experts) that seeding in the Fall, especially in September, is the way to go.  We can slice, aerate, power rake, and even till to get the ground worked up and then simply add some seed.  A little fertilizer, maybe some straw and the rest is up to Mother Nature and/or your irrigation system.  But the fall of 2010 was not one of the better years to do the work described above.  Mother Nature evidently took a little time off in September and the watering didn’t get done!  So if you didn’t have an irrigation system, and your seed didn’t get regular moisture, you’re probably back at square 1.

    So what do you do now?  Let me first say that most Crabgrass Preventers and Spring seeding don’t mix!  March 1st through April 15th is the time “they” (those experts again) recommend putting down crabgrass control products to prevent Crabgrass.  The active ingredient in these products will also prevent grass seed from germinating in the Spring.  If you must seed in the Spring, hold your Crabgrass control until your new seed is up and has been mowed 3 or 4 times.  At that point, we recommend that you use a product called Dimension, because it is a lot more friendly to new grass as it gets established. Tupersan is the only Crabgrass control that you can put down in newly seeded areas.  It’s pretty pricey and it only last 3 to 4 weeks, but that may be long enough to get you to a point that you can mow a few times, then put down your Dimension.

    If you must Spring seed, and if the weather cooperates, make sure to keep the Crabgrass control (Pre-emergents) out of the areas you’re seeding.  Also keep in mind that you might not see new seed coming up until late April as soil temps starting getting in the 50’s.  You can grow grass in the Spring; you just gotta follow the rules…..!

    └ Tags: Crabgrass, Crabgrass Control, Crabgrass Pre-emergent, Fertilizing, Lawn Care, Overseeding, Seeding, Turf, Turf Management

    Fruit Tree Spray Schedule

    Step 1: While trees are sleeping – Prune and fertilize tree
    Remove inner branches, twigs, and sucker growth.  A light application of 13-13-13.  More is not better!!

    Step 2: While trees are still sleeping – use Dormant Oil (mix with Lime Sulfur for Peach Trees)
    Dormant oil coats and suffocates mites, scale, twig borers and insect eggs in the bark and branches of your trees.  Use on Maples to prevent orange bums or galls on Maple leaves in the Summer.

    Step 3: When buds start swelling – use Fruit Tree Spray (or Lime Sulfur if you’re Old School)
    This application controls apple scab fungus and mites that cause leaf blisters.  Use Lime Sulfur on Roses in March to control scale and stem canker.

    Step 4: When petals fall – use Fruit Tree Spray
    Controls cedar-apple rust, as well as brown rot and scab diseases.

    Step 5: 2 weeks after petals fall – use Fruit Tree Spray
    Contains insecticide, miticide and fungicide to prevent problems from developing.

    Step 6: 4 weeks after petals fall – use Fruit Tree Spray
    Contains insecticide, miticide and fungicide to prevent problems from developing.

    Do not spray trees while blooming!!  Let the pollinators do their job!!

    Remember, an ounce of prevention now, saves you time and money later!

    └ Tags: Fruit Trees, Trees

    Think Outside the Box(store)

    Watch for our new commercial and remember to ‘think outside the box(store)’ this year!

    Finding the right Strawberry

    Over the next several days we will look at several different types of strawberries that are hardy to our area.  Any questions, leave a comment or e-mail us at office@oldmillnursery.com

    Allstar

    June Bearing
    With an almost perfect strawberry shape, Allstar has become a major variety during the late midseason time. The glossy firm fruit, which holds its size very well, is an excellent u-pick or home garden choice. Its orange/red color & delicate skin lessens its shipping potential. Allstar’s vigor & resistance to red stele, verticillium wilt, moderate resistance to powdery mildew & leaf scorch, makes it suitable to almost any growing region & soil condition.

    Cavendish
    June Bearing
    A high yielder with red stele resistance makes Cavendish an excellent choice for some growers. A very winter-hardy
    variety, it produces very large quality berries which are excellent for all uses. The great potential for this variety
    makes it a new variety that you need to try in your planting

    Earliglow
    June Bearing
    FLAVOR!! Earliglow sets the standard for traditional strawberry taste. It is the max for fresh out of the garden eating, jams & freezing. So sweet no sugar is needed. For years Earliglow has been one of the biggest sellers in the Eastern U.S. for gardeners & smaller commercial growers. It is the earliest fruiting variety available. The first & second pickings are nice sized berries for eating out of hand and the later pickings are fantastic for jams & freezing.

    Honeoye
    June Bearing
    Fantastic yielder! This berry is a large fruit with a beautiful red color. It is firm, red clear through & is great for pies. A good fresh shipper & very winter hardy. Currently, the most popular PYO variety in the Midwest & Northeast. It’s the leading producer in holding its size during the long harvest season. The Honeoye is best flavored when allowed to grow in lighter soils. Due to flavor considerations & lack of disease resistance, it is best to keep this variety on lighter soils or on raised beds.

    Tribute
    Everbearing
    Tribute’s medium to large, firm fruit has made it the most popular of the eastern day-neutrals. It is one of the most successful varieties in commercial plantings. During the first year, Tribute will peak in September & the next year will bring a heavy spring crop. Resistant to red stele & verticillium wilt.

    └ Tags: Gardening, Planting, Strawberries, Strawberry

    This Just In

    A couple varieties of tomatoes just arrived today…..

    Amish Paste
    Dates back to the turn of the century, and is the best for sauces and canning.  Deep red fruits, about 8 oz., are large for canning types with “real tomato” flavor.  not overly acidic.

    German Johnson Pink (Customer Favorite)
    This longtime favorite in the Mid-Atlantic and Southeast is one of the parent lines of Mortgage Lifter.  Vigorous, potato leaf vines produce mild-flavored, meaty, rough, 12 to 24 oz. fruits with pink skins and yellow shoulders that are low in acid.  May contain a small percentage of regular-leafed plants.  One of the highest rated pinks for flavor and yield.

    └ Tags: Gardening, Planting, Tomatoes

    Arbor Day Celebration

    Celebrate Arbor Day with the Missouri Department of Conservation

    Saturday, April 30th
    10:00 – 12:00

    701 James McCarthy Dr.
    St. Joseph, MO 64507
    816.271.3100

    FREE to the public

    Each family will receive 2 seedlings FREE
    Several kids activities
    Foresters on site
    At 11:00 am their will be a hike on the trails

    └ Tags: Arbor Day, Events, Missouri Department of Conservation

    Idyllwild Gardens May Festival

    2nd Annual
    Idyllwild Gardens May Festival

    Saturday, May 7th
    10:00 – 4:00

    1106 S. Hwy. 71
    Savannah, MO 64485

    (5 miles North of Savannah.  Exit 53)
    816.294.8972

    Providence Hill Farm will be here with her kids (baby goats) & her fabulous goats milk soaps & lotions.

    All natural make-up from God’s Green Earth Cosmetics.

    Andrew County Spinning Guild at 11:00 am to demonstrate spinning

    Shelly Cox, of the the Department of Conservation will be available to discuss the importance of honey bees & beginning bee keeping

    Jennifer Morris, with her smiles, ornamental chickens & free-range eggs.

    Fairy Garden Tours & tattoos for the kiddos.

    Mothers can enter to win a basket filled with flowers & garden goodies.

    └ Tags: Events, May Fest

    Wine Tasting in the Garden

    Stop and smell the roses, taste some wine, and start your weekend early with the Old Mill Nursery. Craft beers will also be available to taste!

    Thursday, May, 5th
    5:00 – 7:00

    Old Mill Nursery
    805 S. 36th St.
    St. Joseph, MO 64507
    816.232.7500
    office@oldmillnursery.com

    └ Tags: Events, Gardening, Wine Tasting

    Best Ornamental Pear Tree

    Question:  I was thinking of planting an ornamental pear, such as Cleveland Select as they are so beautiful in the spring, covered with snow white flowers.  Is this a good choice as I know I am not to plant Bradford Pear?

    Answer:  There are several ways to answer this question.  If you are going to plant an ornamental pear then Cleveland Select is a good choice.  But I have two concerns with planting any of the ornamental pears.  1.  The Kansas City area has not experienced an ice storm in a long time.  We have not had an event since all the new and improved “Bradford’s” hit the market.  Looking at the branching structure it is better, but I, along with others, have concerns of how good it will really be under a heavy load.  2.  Back when we only planted Bradford we had no problem with seedlings sprouting.  Now that there are multiple varieties they are pollinating and seedling pears are appearing.  The seeds of the ornamental pears are being dropped by birds all over.  It appears that this species is becoming invasive.  By invasive I mean it is sprouting up in the open fields and woodlands, choking out native species.  Now to answer your question I say, enjoy the neighbor’s, but find another tree to your liking.

    Taken from the May 2011 issue of The Kansas City Gardener.  Written by Dennis Patton.

    └ Tags: Bradford Pear, Cleveland Select Pear, Ornamental Trees, Pear Trees, Trees

    Time to Vote

    Your vote would be greatly appreciated

    KQ2 Best of St. Joe
    Categories:
    - Lawn & Garden Center
    - Lawn Service

    St. Joseph News-Press Reader’s Choice
    Categories:
    - Favorite Garden Center
    - Favorite Lawn Care

    └ Tags: Best Of St Joe, Reader's Choice, Voting

    Maple Bladder Gall Mite

    Bright red bladder-shaped growths on the top of maple leaves are evidence of the maple bladder gall mite. Adult mites that have overwintered beneath bark and bud scales on host trees move to newly developing leaves and begin feeding. The pouch-like galls develop in response to this feeding activity. Initially, the galls are green but gradually turn red and then black. Adults deposit eggs in the galls as they feed. Eventually, the adults and their progeny will leave the gall in search of newly forming leaves so they can continue the cycle. Mite activities decrease as summer heat arrives.

    The galls may be unsightly but do not damage the maple trees. Therefore, the need for control is questionable. Also, spraying must start before the galls are formed to be effective. If control is still desired, use a dormant spray before the leaves open in the spring. Alternatively, use insecticidal soaps as the first leaves unfurl with a follow-up treatment 10 days later.

    Taken from Kansas State University Research & Extension Horticulture Newsletter No. 19 May 10, 2011

    └ Tags: Bladder Gall, Insects, Maple Trees, Trees

    Wine Tasting – Encore

    We will be hosting our second Wine Tasting in the Garden. Uncorked, Events by Lee will be hosting with us. Plenty of flowers to smell & wine to taste! Start your weekend early!! Hope to see you then.

    When:
    Thursday, June 2, 2011
    5:00 – 7:00 pm

    Where:
    Old Mill Nursery
    805 S. 36th St.
    St. Joseph, MO 64507
    816.232.7500

    └ Tags: Flowers, Gardening, Missouri, Saint Joseph, Wine Tasting

    Mulching Tomatoes

    Soils are warm enough now that tomatoes can benefit from mulching. Tomatoes prefer even levels of soil moisture and mulches provide such by preventing excessive evaporation. Other benefits of mulching include weed suppression, moderating soil temperatures and preventing the formation of a hard crust on the soil. Crusted soils restrict air movement into and out of the soil and slow the water infiltration rate.

    Hay and straw mulches are very popular for tomatoes but may contain weed or volunteer grain seeds. Grass clippings can also be used but should be applied as a relatively thin layer – only 2 to 3 inches thick. Clippings should also be dry as wet clipping can mold and become so hard that water can’t pass through. Also, do not use clippings from lawns that have been treated with a weed killer until some time has passed. With most types of weed killers, clippings from the fourth mowing after treatment may be used. If the lawn was treated with a product containing quinclorac (Drive), the clippings should not be used as mulch.

    Taken from Kansas State University Research & Extension Horticulture Newsletter No. 19 May 10, 2011

    └ Tags: Fruit, Gardening, Mulching, Tomatoes, Vegetables

    Water Garden Tour

    2011 Water Garden Tour

    Host:  St. Joseph Area Water Garden Society

    When:
    Saturday, June 25th | 1:00 – 5:00 pm
    Sunday, June 26th | 1:00 – 5:00 pm

    $7.00 per person
    (11 years old & under, FREE with paid adult)

    Rain or Shine

    Tickets available at Old Mill Nursery | 805 S. 36th St. | St. Joseph, MO

    For more information, please contact club President, Terry Meschke at 816.232.7041
    www.sjwatergarden.com

    └ Tags: Missouri, Saint Joseph, Water Garden Tour, Water Gardens

    Joplin Tornado Relief

    The Lion’s Club will be collecting the items below from 9:00 – 12:00 Wednesday, June 1.

    We realize this may not be convenient with everyone’s busy schedules.  You drop these items off at Old Mill Nursery!  We will be collecting the items found below through Wednesday, June 1 and we will deliver them to the Lion’s Club.

    - Clothing
    - Toiletries
    - Bottled Water
    - Canned Goods

    Questions, give us a call at 816.232.7500.

    └ Tags: Joplin, Missouri, Tornado Relief

    Twiglight Garden Tour

    St. Francis Xavier Church

    Saturday, June 25, 2011
    5:00 – 9:00 pm
    Rain Date July 9th

    $10 tickets will be sold after each Mass in June.

    Tickets maybe purchased at any tour site the evening of the event.

    Raffle tickets will also be sold at Masses for a statue of St. Fiacre, the patron saint of gardening.  $1.00 each or 6 for $5.

    Refreshments will be served at each home.

    └ Tags: Garden Tours, Gardening, Gardening Events, Missouri, Saint Joseph, St Joseph, Twiglight Garden Tours

    Flooding & Plants

    Flooding and Plants
    In Kansas we often see chlorosis (yellowing) of plant leaves due to high pH soils making iron unavailable. But there can be other causes that result in similar symptoms. For example, we have received so much rain in certain parts of the state recently that plants are unable to take up the nutrients needed to maintain a good green color. Fortunately, chlorosis due to wet soils will correct itself when soils dry. Plants should regain their color when more normal weather returns.

    Flooding Damage
    Waterlogged soils push out oxygen that roots need to survive. Every living cell in a plant must have oxygen or it dies. Some plants have mechanisms to provide oxygen to the roots even under saturated conditions, but most vegetables and flowers do not. The longer these plants are subjected to saturated soils, the more likely damage will occur. Usually, as long as water drains within 24 hours, the impact on plant health is minimal. However, shallow, stagnant water under hot, sunny conditions can literally cook plants, reducing survival time to as little as a few hours.

    Vegetables: Is it safe to eat produce from a garden that has been flooded? Standing water should not cause a safety problem as long as the aboveground portions of the plant remain healthy. Do not use produce from plants that have yellowed. Also, using produce flooded with water contaminated with sewage (lagoon) or animal manure also can be dangerous. The safest approach is to discard garden crops that have been in contact with such water. Certainly, leafy vegetables should always be discarded. However, you can eat tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, sweet corn, squash, cucumbers, and similar vegetables that develop after the waters have subsided as long as the fruit is not cracked or soft. Always wash vegetables thoroughly before eating.

    Lawns: Under the cool conditions of early spring, turf grasses often can survive several days of flooding. However, during hot, sunny conditions with shallow, stagnant water, lawns may be damaged quickly, sometimes in a few hours. This situation often occurs when shallow depressions in a lawn allow water to pool. Note such areas and fill in with additional soil once the waters have subsided.

    Trees: Trees differ markedly in their ability to withstand flooding. Some trees have mechanisms in place to provide oxygen to the roots of plants with water-saturated soils, and others do not. However, most trees will maintain health if floodwaters recede in 7 days or less. It also helps if water is flowing rather than stagnant because flowing water contains more oxygen. If the roots of sensitive trees are flooded for long periods of time, damage will occur including leaf drop, iron chlorosis, leaf curl, branch dieback and, in some cases, tree death. Another danger of flooding is the deposition of sediment. An additional layer of silt 3 inches or more can also restrict oxygen to the roots. If possible, remove deep layers of sediment as soon as conditions permit. This is especially important for small or recently transplanted trees.

    Try to avoid additional stress to the trees this growing season. Ironically, one of the most important practices is to water trees if the weather turns dry. Flooding damages roots, making the root system less efficient in making use of available soil water. Timely watering is vital to a tree’s recovery. Also diligently remove dead or dying branches that may serve as an entry point for disease organisms or insect pests. The following information on tree survival came from the U.S. Forest Service.

    Flood-tolerant trees can survive one growing season under flooded conditions: Red maple, silver maple, pecan, hackberry, persimmon, white ash, green ash, sweetgum, sycamore, eastern cottonwood, pin oak and baldcypress.

    Trees moderately tolerant of flooding can survive 30 consecutive days under flooded conditions: River birch, downy hawthorn, honeylocust, swamp white oak, southern red oak, bur oak, willow oak and American elm.

    Trees sensitive to flooding are unable to survive more than a few days of flooding during the growing season: Redbud, flowering dogwood, black walnut, red mulberry, most pines, white oak, blackjack oak, red oak and black oak.

    Soils often become compacted and crusted after a heavy rainfall. This also can restrict oxygen to the roots. Lightly scraping the soil to break this crust will help maintain a healthy root system and, therefore, a healthy plant. Be careful not to cultivate too deeply as shallow roots may be damaged. If you think the excessively wet weather will continue, bedding up the rows before planting even just a couple of inches, will improve drainage and allow for better aeration.

    Taken from Kansas State University Research & Extension Horticulture Newsletter June 2, 2011 – Special e-mail

    └ Tags: Flooding, Gardening, Lawn Care, Plants, Trees

    Trees Not Leafing Out

    We have had numerous reports of trees not leafing out or putting out only a fraction of the leaves normally borne. We believe much of this is due to an abnormally dry fall and early winter accompanied by colder winter temperatures than normal. Also, many areas of the western part of the state have been extremely dry for a very long time making a bad situation worse.

    If a tree hasn’t leafed out at all, check the stems. If they are dry and brittle, that part of the tree is dead. However sometimes the tips of the branches are dead but the tree is alive further back. Take a knife and shave off the outer bark on several small-diameter, young branches. If the tissue underneath is water soaked or dark brown to black in color, then it is likely dead. This cambium layer should be a greenish-white color. As long as the twigs remain supple and the tissue under the bark isn’t dark, there is hope.

    So what should we do for these trees? Help them avoid stress. This means watering during dry weather so the tree has good sap flow. Trees transplanted within the last couple of years should be watered every week during dry weather. More established trees should be watered every two weeks if there is no rainfall.

    On young trees, kill all the grass under the tree and mulch. Reducing root competition makes for a healthier tree that is more likely to recover.

    And finally, remove any dead wood so that insects and disease do not have a point of entry. Dead wood can be removed any time of year.

    Taken from Kansas State University Research & Extension Horticulture Newsletter No. 22 May 31, 2011

    └ Tags: Trees

    Lime and Gypsum…wait a minute!

    The use of lime and/or gypsum is a questionable practice in our area, especially without a soil test.  Many folks want to just buy something and “throw it out there”, but you really need to test the soil before you use either of these products.  In the Midwest, soils tend to be basic, applications of lime don’t do much or may harm your soil.  Gypsum should not be considered a “shortcut” to aerification.  Several articles I’ve read say the long term benefits aren’t worth putting it down.  Do a soil test, then apply products according to your results!

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